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Painted Lady Butterfly Care and Feeding

Vanessa cardui is a member of the order Lepidoptera and the family Nymphalidae, which is the most diverse family of butterflies. This family is also called brush-footed butterflies because the forelegs of these butterflies are very small and covered with hair. V. cardui is the most widely distributed butterfly in the world. It can be found in North America, Africa, Europe, and Asia. In North America, the Painted Lady is seen in most of the fifty states and Canada, the range reaching as far north as the Arctic Circle. The upper surface of the Painted Lady is orange and brown. The front wings also have white spots, while the hindwings each have four small eyespots underneath.

A fascinating characteristic of butterflies is their complete metamorphosis, which is the process of growth and development where an egg hatches into a larva, the larva transforms into a pupa, and the pupa emerges into an adult. When the larvae emerge, they will eat more than their body weight each day. Painted Lady larvae usually feed on plants from the Malvaceae and Compositae families. The larva grows and expands through one molt, and then continues to grow until it becomes a pupa, which is also known as a chrysalis. Although the chrysalis may appear inactive, it is undergoing a rapid transformation into an adult butterfly. When the transformation is complete, the butterfly emerges from the chrysalis. At first the wings will be folded or crumpled; however, the butterfly will soon begin to pump its wings, forcing fluid from the abdomen into the veins to inflate the wings to the proper size and shape. After a couple of hours, the butterfly will be ready to take flight.

When you receive your caterpillars (larvae), place the container upright and out of direct sunlight in an area where it can be easily viewed. Ideally, the caterpillars should be kept at a temperature between 21–27°C (70 – 80°F), but they can tolerate a range as wide as 18 – 29°C (65 – 85°F) and still develop normally. The rate of their development is dependent on the temperature of their surroundings; the cooler the temperature, the slower they develop and the warmer the temperature, the faster they develop.

The caterpillars will grow quite rapidly, producing a silky material that helps them to move around the container and provides shelter in their natural environment. If condensation forms inside the plastic container, wipe the excess water off with a paper towel. The caterpillars will excrete waste that looks like greenish brown balls. It is not necessary to remove the waste from the container at this time; however, if you prefer the waste may be scooped out with a clean spoon. Periodically, the caterpillars may appear lifeless during the growing period. This is normal and usually indicates that the caterpillar will be molting soon. When the caterpillars are fully grown, they will stop feeding, climb to the top of the container, and hang down, head first. At this time, they will shed their outer skin, revealing a chrysalis.

When all of the caterpillars have reached this pupal stage or are hanging down, head first, carefully remove the lid and tape the paper lining with the chrysalides to the inner side of a box or cage suitable for housing and viewing butterflies. Do not leave them in the original container. If any of the chrysalides fall, gently wipe off any debris and hang the fallen chrysalides by attaching the small pointed protrusion of the chrysalis to a cotton ball and then taping the cotton ball to the wall of the cage. By hanging the chrysalides, the wings of the butterflies will have a better chance of developing normally. It is very important not to puncture or squeeze the pupae during this procedure and the use of insect forceps is highly recommended. If it is impossible to hang the chrysalides, gently set them on the bottom of the cage or box.

In 7 –10 days the butterflies will emerge and, after a short period of pumping up their wings, will be ready to fly. During this time, the new butterflies may excrete a red liquid called meconium, which is a built-up waste from the pupal stage. Feed the butterflies by wetting a piece of cotton or paper towel in a solution of two teaspoons sugar, brown sugar, or honey mixed with one cup of water. The butterflies can then be released or kept in their cage for the entirety of their two or three week adult life span.

This guide is also available in PDF format on wardsci.com.

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Eastern Newt Care and Feeding

Called the red eft in the terrestrial phase, and the water newt or green water lizard in the adult aquatic stage, the Eastern newt, found all over the northern and eastern United States, is one of the hardiest and most attractive of the salamanders. After a normal larval stage in the water, newts usually live on land. These woodland adolescents, or efts, are about 2″ long. In most regions the red eft returns to the water for breeding and assumes different coloration and habits. When fully grown, Eastern newts are 3–4″ long. In both phases, they have two rows of scarlet spots rimmed with black running down their backs.

These animals should be housed in a terrarium or aquarium according to the animal’s stage of development. If the animals are in the olive-green water phase (larval), keep them in an aquarium. In this stage they usually eat more readily and are easier to care for than in the red eft stage. Feed them finely cut meat and liver, wingless fruit flies, enchytraeus (white worms), and tubifex worms three times a week. Be sure to remove all uneaten food from the aquarium.

The attractive Eastern newt makes a good addition to a damp moss-covered terrarium. They can be difficult to feed, but will usually accept small food such as white worms, fruit flies, or very small earthworms. They will usually not accept dead meat.

This guide is also available in PDF format on wardsci.com.

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Marine Tropical Fish Care and Feeding

We have chosen these species for their hardiness, compatibility, ease of care, and attractiveness.

Blue Damsel Fish
This fish is native to the Mediterranean, where it lives along rocky coasts and the steep shores of islands and piers. There are several color variations including purple with a yellow tail, blue-green, and a striking bright blue. The Blue Damsel Fish enjoys exploring caves. Try to provide some structures for them to move in and out of freely.

Clown Anemone Fish
This fish is also from the tropical Indo-Pacific coral reefs. They will often adopt a Giant Sea Anemone, forming a unique symbiotic relationship. The anemone provides protection; in return the Clown Fish keeps his host clean and in some cases has been known to actually feed the anemones. Along with their natural animated behaviors, they will become conditioned to feeding and will dart to the water surface when they believe it is time to eat.

Housing

An established, 15+ gallon marine tank with proper filtration (undergravel- and a power-filter recommended) will make them feel right at home. Allow at least four gallons per fish when small, and ten or more gallons when full grown (2 – 3″). DO NOT OVERCROWD. These fish are territorial, and the more aggressive ones will attack or harrass the weaker ones if they don’t have enough “elbow room.”

Environment

Keep the specific gravity of the salt water around 1.023 and at a temperature of 23°C (74°F). Provide a selection of underwater decorations with plenty of nooks and crannies for hiding and exploration.

Food

DO NOT OVERFEED. Feed once daily and provide no more than fish can consume in five minutes. Marine or Tropical Fish flake food provides a good staple diet, and live or frozen brine shrimp are a favorite treat. Overfeeding will foul the tank, overload the filtration system, and kill the fish. More frequent feedings will cause your fish to grow larger and faster, necessitating a larger tank.

This guide is also available in PDF format on wardsci.com.

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Marine Echinoderms Care and Feeding

Upon Arrival

Unpack the shipping container promptly. Specimens are usually packaged with seawater in a sealed plastic bag containing oxygen instead of air. Float the bag (still sealed) on the surface of the marine tank that you intend to put the organisms into for at least half an hour, so that they can gradually acclimate to the new water temperature.

Water Temperature

All of WARD’S marine echinoderms listed below are warm water marine organisms, and should be maintained from 72 – 80°F. If the room temperature that the tank is in does not stay within this temperature range day and night, or if it fluctuates more than 3– 4°F, then a water heater appropriate for your tank size should be used.

Water Quality and Conditions

Excellent water quality is required for the long-term maintenance of most marine echinoderms. Refer to the set-up or marine aquaculture guide that came with your marine aquarium for system start-up and maintenance instructions. Pay especially close attention to the instructions concerning biological load and establishment of a biological filter! In brief: add only a couple of hardy specimens in the first six weeks to a new tank, and then add only a few more specimens at a time, while you monitor ammonia and nitrite levels. Provide 25 – 50% water changes on a monthly basis; more often during tank break-in periods or when ammonia levels rise. Water specific gravity (salinity) should be checked and adjusted to s.g. 1.020 –1.024 on a weekly basis. The pH should be held steady in a range of 8.0 – 8.4 by using a calcium carbonate (crushed coral) gravel/filter media or else a water buffer specifically formulated for marine aquariums. Unless specifically noted, these organisms have no special lighting requirements.

Feeding

The food requirements for captive marine echinoderms are generally modest and simple. Follow the feeding table on the next page. If specimens become less turgid or decrease in size, first check all water quality parameters as outlined above, then consider increasing the amount or frequency of feedings, but don’t feed so much that the tank and water become dirty. Filter/adsortive feeders require high protein particulate (planktonic) infusion on a daily basis. Invertebrate Feeding Blocks consisting of a calcium carbonate buffer with embedded food particles are the easiest to use, since they dissolve slowly over 2–3 weeks. The best alternative is to feed your specimens with cultures of living microbes; samples of marine micro-algae or rotifers may be added to the tank daily if you culture them separately, and many well-established tanks can support an indigenous population of micro-algae if provided with enough light.

Marine Echinoderms Feeding Guide

Organism Foodstuff
Aiptasia Anemones live or frozen brine shrimp, particulate infusion
Anemone-Cleaning Crab small fish flakes and pieces, detritus from giant anemone
Brine Shrimp particulate infusion
Cassiopeae Jellyfish bright light (for symbiotic algae) particulate infusion, Tubifex worms
Flame Scallop particulate infusion
Giant Sea Anemone live or frozen brine shrimp, fish pieces weekly, particulate infusion, earthworms
Hermit Crab fish pieces, [sinking] fish/crab pellets
Horseshoe Crab fish pieces, [sinking] fish/crab pellets
Lettuce Slugs algae, micro-algae on surfaces, sometimes prey upon small anemones and corals
Living Rock particulate infusion, bright light for macroalgae/plants
Marine Snails micro-algae on surfaces
Polychete Worms particulate infusion
Sea Cucumber small fish pieces, [sinking] fish/crab pellets
Sea Peach particulate infusion
Sea Urchin small fish pieces, [sinking] fish/crab pellets
Serpent Star small fish pieces, [sinking] fish/crab pellets, microalgae earthworms

This guide is also available in PDF format on wardsci.com.

Hermit Crab Care Guide

The land hermit crab, Coenobita clypeatus, can enliven your classroom and create tremendous interest, without requiring extensive care. This animal is a useful tool in a number of social behavior studies: aggression behavior, shell exchange, and feeding behavior; all of which can be conducted easily within the confines of the classroom.

Land Hermit CrabLand hermit crabs, such as C. clypeatus, are found in tropical and subtropical regions of the Caribbean, their northernmost range being the Florida Keys. They are most often found in beach areas near the ocean but may travel about a kilometer inland. Land hermit crabs are excellent climbers and, as scavengers, eat both plant and animal matter.

These animals are nocturnal, usually hiding under leaves or burying themselves in the sand during the heat of the day. This activity seems to be directly related to the sun’s heat. They usually show activity in the classroom terrarium. Their gentle and timid disposition make them great pets as well, because they rarely pinch. C. clypeatus grows slowly, and may live as long as ten years in captivity.

Land hermit crabs are best kept in a large, dry container (terrarium or aquarium tank) with at least 4– 8” of clean sand, gravel, or wood shavings on the bottom. A small piece of driftwood can be provided so the crabs can climb, and a cover for the container should be provided to prevent the animals from escaping. A small dish of fresh, clean water should be placed in the terrarium and should be available at all times. Make sure that the water dish is shallow, because land hermit crabs will drown if left immersed in water for several hours. However, the crabs do carry a small supply of water in their shells to allow them to travel to locales where water is unavailable. In order to keep them healthy, they should be misted daily with water from a spray bottle. You should also add dry moss or crumpled paper to one side of the container for them to burrow under, especially when they are molting. The terrarium should be kept between 15 – 29°C (59 – 84°F). If the temperature drops below 18°C (64°F) the crabs will become inactive, and at temperatures below 10°C (50°F) they will die. In order to maintain the temperature, place a 25 W light bulb over the container to generate enough heat on cold winter nights.

Crabs eat nearly any food offered, including dry dog food, pieces of fruit, lettuce, and cookies, although a vegetable diet is preferred. Hermit crabs should have a ready supply of food available at all times, so refill their food dish when it gets low, or replace the old food when it goes bad if you’ve given them fresh fruit or vegetables. WARD’S also offers a specially formulated hermit crab food (88 W 0612) that will supply them with all the necessary nutrition.

As the crab grows, it will need to change to a larger “home” or shell. Several shells of different sizes should be kept in the container so the crab may exchange its shell whenever necessary. Any spiral gastropod shell will do for this purpose. Also, when hermit crabs molt, they will need a source of calcium to assist in the hardening of the new exoskeleton. To meet this need, simply place a few pieces of egg shell in the terrarium.

This guide is also available in PDF format on wardsci.com.

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